landlord & co-owner, The Devonshire (Soho) · 14 picks
Oisín Rogers is the landlord of The Devonshire, the Soho pub he opened in November 2023 with Flat Iron's Charlie Carroll and chef Ashley Palmer-Watts, and which became one of the hardest tables in London almost immediately. He ran The Guinea Grill in Mayfair and The Ship in Wandsworth before that. These are the places he sends people to himself.
Soma, across the road. It's fantastic. I love the darkness of the inside, I love how brilliantly small the menus are.
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Best burger, MeatLiquor. We quite often go up there for late night burgers.
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order: burger
Algerian Coffee Stores. They are doing God's work.
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order: coffee
Most outrageous value: Dumplings' Legend. You're in and out of there for about 12 quid.
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order: dumplings
You go to Dumplings' Legend on your own. You get treated like a king. Love it.
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order: dumplings
You have those three courses and this incredible wine list, you can only be left with a sense of great joy.
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There's the Four Seasons on Wardour Street. Brilliant.
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order: beef rib noodles
Best meal of 2025? The Ledbury, followed by the Ritz. That was the most bougie night to end all bougie nights.
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My best meal of the year, followed by the Ritz. That was the most bougie night to end all bougie nights.
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Is it still the best restaurant in London for you? I'm afraid so.
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Best restaurant in London? Otto's, my favourite restaurant. It's the tits.
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I go on my own, you sit on the counter. It's ridiculously good value for what it is. I've said Kiln before. Brilliant.
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Best curry, Dishoom, and it never disappoints. They are so good at what they do.
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order: black daal
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Published 2026-08-19 · updated 2026-08-28